Category: Rule 2
Lime Juice, Rule 2, Syrups, tiki, Tiki Month 2016, Whiskey

Modern Tiki Drink: Permanent Holiday

As I said in my Opening Post for Tiki Month, I want to focus to a large extent this year on the new creations that illustrate the strength of the current Tiki revival. The first drink I want to examine this month also illustrates how modern Tiki is expanding upon the previous array of commonly used ingredients to find new ways to create the feelings that somehow define Tiki. [caption id="attachment_10891" align="aligncenter" width="550"]Permanent Holiday Permanent Holiday, by Trey Jenkins via The Hardest Working Blogger in the Cocktailosphere[/caption] Here's the recipe. You'll see that it follows the Tiki formula of a bunch of different boozes, some citrus, and some syrup that defines the overwhelming majority of Tiki drinks. But the alcohols are all out of whack to the traditional eye.
PERMANENT HOLIDAY
  • 1 part bourbon
  • 1 part Averna
  • 1/2 part Licor 43
  • 1 part (pink) grapefruit juice
  • 1/2 part fresh lime juice
  • 1/2 part passion fruit syrup (Homemade or BG Reynolds')
Shake with ice until well chilled, then strain over crushed ice in a Tiki vessel. I used an orange peel wrapped around a spent tattooed lime husk. Depending on who's drinking it, a sprig or even a bunch of fresh mint would not go amiss.
I was seriously curious how this collection of ingredients was going to come out feeling Tiki. When you think upon the genre, bourbon (though a certain prominent exception applies), Italian amaro, and a Spanish liqueur that did not reach American shores until well past Tiki's formative years are not the ingredients that leap to mind. But it works. First of all, it is a good drink. It tastes good. It is interesting. It has a whole lot going on. Secondly, it has that exotic, somewhat undefined flavor profile that triggers all sorts of different flavor impressions in different people which I associate strongly with the best Tiki drinks. This is just the sort of new creation that will help keep Tiki in the craft's consciousness. Drinks like this one expand the "artist's" palette and creative options, while at the same time expands the Tiki market to that guy thinks Tiki drinks sound great, but "who really only drink (Spirit X which isn't rum)".abc
Rule 2, Tiki Month 2016

Tiki Month, 2016

PanAmChinaClipperPoster Seven years.... February, 2016 is the eighth Tiki Month, and that means I have been assembling these annual explorations of Tiki drinks and related culture for seven years. I have always concentrated mostly on the history of Tiki and it's golden and silver ages of the 30's and 40's, and the 50's and 60's. That made sense back in 2009, nine years after the closure of the last great Tiki Palace, the Kahiki (right here in Columbus, OH) had signaled the bitter, ignominious "end of the Tiki era". All that was left of commercial Tiki bars were a few fossilized Trader Vic's. There were just the two lonely outposts of original Tiki drink menus, the boutique joint, Tiki-Ti and the beautifully preserved but then almost entirely tourist-ridden Mai Kai. A few other survivors lurked in obscurity. In the industry, Tiki was a dead letter, The home Tiki bar in 2009 was, to all but the drinks equivalent of professional cosplayers, this: img_8428 And the only such set-up likely to be encountered by a normal American was more this: Tiki-Bar In the online world, Tiki's presence was largely limited to a few of the online forum-type websites that flowered (and still exist) in the brief period between the fall of Usenet and the rise of Reddit. But that culture was more about cars, music, clothes, and artwork than it was about drinks. I'd bet that more of this community would have identified beer and bowling in aloha shirts as a celebration of Tiki culture than would have so much as recognized a properly made Mai Tai. I'm not hating here. Where would we be without the monks who preserved Plato and Aristotle during the Dark Ages? The large number of people that are now rediscovering Tiki in commercial bar culture would not and could not be enjoying it without them. [caption id="attachment_10731" align="aligncenter" width="525"]Full sized prints available at Mahalo Tiki Full sized prints available at Mahalo Tiki[/caption] In the blossoming world of the early Cocktailosphere, there were a few, fantastic fanatics in their fezzes and flower leis, who did yeoman work illustrating what had once been for all the rest of us three-ingredient, elegant sophistication-types who made up the majority in the early days of the Cocktail Renaissance. In those days, paring knives, flower pots, and saucepans were almost exclusively the province of the Tikibloggers. It was these explorers, the group I appointed the Board of Tiki Idols and a few others, whose example drove me to start Tiki Month. I viewed Tiki Month then, as now, as a chance to trade the gray, frozen mud of Ohio's winter depths for those glorious pictures of crazy concoctions and a world of imagination. And to encourage absolutely everyone I reached to at least to some extent to do the same. And as I prepare for this year's Tiki Month, transforming my ultra-sleek, modern basement bar into the volcano-ravaged, bamboo jungle it becomes each winter, finding new recipes to try and essaying a few originals of my own, it strikes me how fundamentally transformed is the world of Tiki in the eighth year of this experiment. [caption id="attachment_10734" align="aligncenter" width="550"]Smuggler's Cove in San Francisco Smuggler's Cove in San Francisco[/caption] Ten months after the first Tiki Month, Martin Cate opened Smuggler's Cove, which is to this day, the most amazing cocktail bar I have even been to. My friend Blair "Trader Tiki" Reynolds had his personal brand struck down by dark forces, but soon became more powerful than they could have possibly imagined. His line of Tiki syrups has saved me from making orgeat, making Mai Tais a year round part of my repertoire, and now he presides over the mighty Hale Pele, a true exemplar of the modern destination Tiki bar. [caption id="attachment_10735" align="aligncenter" width="550"]Blair Reynolds, looking all successful and stuff. Blair Reynolds, looking all successful and stuff.[/caption] Anthropologist Jeff Berry, the combined godfather and wet nurse of modern Tiki, has progressed from vagabond attic scrounger and trade show star to proprietor of the world-famous Latitude 29 in the Bienville House in New Orleans, which was world-famous even before it opened simply because the Beachbum was going to own it. Operating Tiki-themed bars are no longer the lone passenger pigeons they were in the Nineties and the Naughties. Indeed, most every major city now sports at least one Tiki den, and it is a measure of the culture's broad appeal that even those who are less than stellar seem able to make a go of it. [caption id="attachment_10736" align="aligncenter" width="550"]Gotta look at least a little more scruffy, or at least hungover, if you want to keep up the “Beachbum” moniker there, Jeff… Gotta look at least a little more scruffy, or at least hungover, if you want to keep up the “Beachbum” moniker there, Jeff…[/caption] The home Tiki bar has gone from pretty much exclusively kits you buy in a plastic bag from Party City or Amazon, to five or even six-figure edifices with fully plumbed fire pits, real jungles, or even water features with real bridges constructed by charmingly psychotic former rap stars.... [caption id="attachment_10725" align="aligncenter" width="550"]A massive swimming pool lagoon that has a lazy river as well as an island and tiki hut. A massive swimming pool lagoon that has a lazy river as well as an island and tiki hut.[/caption] And the drinks... eight years ago, you took your self-respect as a cocktailian into your own hands if you were to order a Mai Tai most places on Earth. Order a Three Dots and a Dash or a Suffering Bastard anywhere and what the bartender would serve you would be an uncomprehending stare. Today, every self-respecting high-end bartender has a set of Tiki favorites embedded in his or her mental index of showoff recipes. And most every craft bar has a Tiki classic and/or an original or two of their own on the menu. It is no longer surprising to see Tiki mugs or a piece of Tiki artwork tucked away as part of the drinkware or decor of even them most classical of modern dens of mixology. So, as you can see, the Tiki world has changed immeasurably since I inaugurated Tiki Month all those years ago...
And Doug takes credit for all of it!
No I don't! I...
Yes. Yes he does. Really, he is simply too modest to say it himself.
Listen. You are embarrassing me...
Lucky for him, he has me here to make sure you know the pride that swells his breast at his single-handed shepherding of Tiki culture back into the public limelight!
The Management of this blog takes no responsibility for the outrageous things that Guy blathers on about, folks!
That's right folks! It's called plausible deniability, and it's a wonderful thing.
...! Indeed, Tiki's resurrection is complete. We can now be sure it is not a zombie (har!) but a phoenix. The only question is how long the drums will roll and the lava flow this time round. Given that, while Tiki Month has always been primarily an historical exploration, I intend to focus this year on the state of the modern art of Tiki. I hope you will stick around and journey with me, and if you have a particular favorite modern Tiki drink, let me know; I want to try it. You can subscribe to the feed here. My posts are linked in my Facebook feed, and if you don't mind all manner of silliness mixed with political polemics, you can also keep up via my Twitter feed as well. Have some Spam, it's delicious! [caption id="attachment_10726" align="aligncenter" width="550"]Yum Yum[/caption]abc
Bartenders, Funny, Rule 2

If Ikea Made Cocktails

Blogging co-conspirator Jacob Grier goes full Dumbledore and awards "all the points" to KJ DeBoer at Fish Sauce in Portland for this aquavit cocktail presentation. This is genius, and all you craft types who think you bring the creativity can just look upon this and despair. The thought process here is crystal clear: Aquavit -> Sweden -> Ikea -> Some assembly required -> Wordless Instrctions -> Ubiquitous allen wrench -> Swizzle stick. Yet neither you nor I thought of it and thus we must all bow to KJ. But... I rate "all the points" as false, since I reserve twenty for Jacob for sharing it and giving me easy content....
abc
Bartenders, Lime Juice, Rule 2

The Best Test of a Knowledgeable Bartender

This is an excellent video from Indulgence, the culture YouTube channel from Playboy (The Atlantic Monthly of Lad Mags™) So, the proposition is this: You can tell most everything you need to know about a bartender by ordering The Gospel of Rum, a Daiquiri. Do you agree? I think I do. For a whole host of reasons, not all of which the bartenders interviewed go into. First, who doesn't like a Daiquiri? Even people who've never had a real Daiquiri like them if you give them one. Good ones are great, and more importantly, even mediocre ones are drinkable. If you are going to have a default test drink, it should be one you don't mind drinking a lot. Second, you will probably know if you need to punch out and switch to Jack and Coke or some wine before you finish ordering. If your bartender winces, or makes excuses about blenders, or says one goddamn word about strawberries, punch out. Quickly. Before the flames reach the cockpit. Conversely, if your bartender replies with intelligent questions such as up or rocks, or especially brand or style of rum, you can almost take your eye off them while they make the drink. If you want to make it a true test, dismiss any suggestions related to Hemingway, or any Daiquiri variant the bar has on their menu. As they say in the video, this is a basic skills test. There are basic bartending skills I don't have, but I can sure fake my way around them if you let me. Third, the rum they use will tell you a lot. If you aren't asked to specify, do they go to the well? If so, what's in there? Do they pour a rum with color without asking you? If they do, they pass the test, but be aware that this person is either opinionated or a conscious risk-taker, or both. Plan your evening accordingly. Fourth, watching closely will tell you a lot about the bar as well as the bartender. Does a bottle of Roses make an appearance? Leave. Leave the bar. You can't trust the Budweiser there unless it's in a bottle. Commercial bottled juice? You can certainly still trust your bartender, but be aware going forward that they may well not be able to give you all you want. What if they pull out a juicer and squeeze your juice to order? Trick question! 5-10 years ago, this would be a good sign. Not any more. A modern bar that looks like it has enough promise for the Daiquiri test, but squeezes to order, either doesn't actually serve many drinks with juice in them at all and will have little experience with high-end drinks in general, or they just will have service so slow you need to get out your calendar.abc
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