The Washington Post's Tom Sietsema gets it. Only thing is, Tom, it's not just for the holidays!abc
UPDATE: Welcome, New York Times readers! I hope you look around while you are here. That picture, my friends, is a sight to make me weep. That is the courtyard of the mighty Pegu Club itself in Rangoon, Burma. Nativity-place of the World's Greatest Cocktail™. Once once of the great gentlemen's clubs (the kind where the brass poles run horizontally along the foot of the bar) of the British Empire at its height, the club was last put to use as a military audit office and flop house for bureaucrats in the 1990s. Now, it rots as an abode for stray dogs. And the Burmese website that has this story (and many other beautiful, tragic pictures you should look at) describes its signature cocktail as "Gin and Rose's lime juice".... If you happened upon this post without knowing about the Pegu cocktail, it is not gin and Rose's. That would be a Gimlet. Look at that magnificent exterior, which is likely already past preservation. The building has been designated as a "heritage building" by the government, so I guess that's something. As opposed to such actions here in the US, the protection of the Pegu Club consists entirely of a hand-written piece of paper held down by a brick that has fallen out of the wall which asks visitors to please not wreck the place. The pictures I've shown you so far are from, I think, an anti-government outlet, and are designed to show the Pegu Club's decay. Since first posting this, I got a tip from Ginger Bar Magazine about another set of photographs by Jacques Maudy and Jimi Casaccia on commission for the Yangon Heritage Trust. (They are apparently a preservation NGO who are endeavoring to preserve glorious architecture like thins in the area. Sadly, their website is currently the dreaded "under construction") These photos are designed to help evoke how beautiful building like this could be, and evoke their past glory. Below is a quite different view of the Pegu Club. You can find many more, higher resolution photos on their website, or even buy their soon-to-be released book, Yangon a City to Rescue. This sad story brings to mind something else I've been meaning to post about for a long time now. How the heck do you really pronounce "Pegu"? Back when I discovered the Pegu in Paul Harrington's Cocktail, a discovery that ignited my obsession with cocktails in general, I surmised that it was pronounced PEE-Goo. Then in 2000, we visited the American Bar at the Savoy in London, where my wife and I had a marvelous long conversation at our table with the legendary Peter Dorelli about the drink, which he thought was pronounced Pee-Zhou. I've always pronounced it thus since. But since Audrey Saunders opened her Pegu Club in Manhattan, most of the cocktail world has pronounced it PEG-oo, under the completely sound expectation that if Audrey says it, it very likely is so. But I wondered. So I picked up the phone and called the embassy of the Republic of Myanmar (what the communist junta renamed Burma to legitimize itself) in Washington, DC. I spoke to a marvelously helpful, if somewhat perplexed, young lady who had never heard the word Pegu or seen it written, at least not in English lettering. She agreed, however, to seek out someone at the embassy who was familiar with it, and call me back with the correct pronunciation. She did call back, (pro tip: say you are a "writer" working on a "story", not a "blogger" writing a "post" if you want a call back) to tell me that a man in the embassy who lived nearby explained to her that the actual pronunciation is Puh-GOO. So there you go. With that earth-shattering piece of investigative journalism out of the way, you can go back to calling the drink a PEG-oo, and I'll keep right on calling it a Pee-Zhou, because I'm a creature of habit.abc
One of my Twitter buddies, Aaron, who blogs at The Gin is In (@TheGinIsIn) has done a couple of posts in the last day or so on the Pegu. His first post is part of his Cocktails by Consensus series, where he looks at older cocktails whose recipes have become... scattered with time as different people tweak them. He looks at Pegu recipes from various sources, including such world-famous cocktail writers as Dave Wondrich and, um, me.
You? "World famous"? Come on, player....I didn't say I was very world famous. Or world-respected. Or even regionally respected...
And those aren't your recipes. The main one is Paul Harrington's, and the egg white version is how Peter Dorelli made it for you.Or even respected on my own blog, apparently. Anyway, Aaron brings up some salient points that are good to keep in mind when working on your Pegus. The most important is that it is very important not to overdo the orange liqueur, whether it be Curaçao, Cointreau, or (shudder) triple sec. Read his post for a full rundown of where different "experts" are on the drink, and how their positions alter the flavor. His post also reminds me that I need to update the main recipe page here to discuss the use of orange bitters. The second Pegu post, done as a followup, is a tasting of the drink with Oxley Dry Gin. I haven't tried that one myself, but it has an old-school, juniper-forward formulation. Aaron is (obviously) a gin guy to begin with, and he enjoys the shading the Oxley gives. He also discusses various orange bitters possibilities, and provides the video I embedded above. As always, read the post for yourself. It is short and on point. I haven't done much with heavy juniper gins, at least in Pegus, for a while, but I'll hearken back to my post on another rather on the nose gin, Broker's. When I wrote that, my own love for gin was still in its infancy, and I didn't particularly like what Broker's did in a Pegu. I like it rather more now. That's not important, but what we can learn from it is. Pegus are lovely cocktails with both juniper-forward London Drys, and more citrusy New Americans, but while the basic flavor remains largely the same with either type of gin, the character changes dramatically. A big, old-school London Dry style of gin makes for a much more assertive, manly drink. It's bracing and stimulative. Lighter gin Pegus are a bit gentler. I have long contended that Pegus, along with Aviations, are great cocktails to use when worming gin into the repertoire of the avowed non-gin drinker. In the case of both drinks, though, it is well to keep in mind that you should stick with the lighter products when you are ginvangelizing.abc
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